The cribs are typically built from large treated timbers, then placed every 10 feet or so on the lake bottom and filled with large rocks. The “crib” part refers to the support structures that hold the dock to the lake bottom. Rolling docks that have wheels can make this even easier.Ĭrib docks are typically designed and installed by professionals, and they are the most permanent and expensive type of docks. Many can be removed and installed (after the initial setup, of course) in a matter of hours, making them ideal for freezing climates where ice damage to the dock’s legs is a possibility. They can be surprisingly easy to install and remove, especially units made from aluminum or a combination of aluminum and plastic or wood decking material. ![]() Post docks are very popular, and they offer stability and a sense of permanence that floating docks just don’t have. The “feet” of the leg supports actually sit directly on the lake bottom, making the dock semi-permanent. Post docks use stanchions, or leg-support assemblies, placed about every 10 feet along the dock to support it. They’re not tippy, but the feeling of stability that a post or crib dock offers is just not there. Many people can be intimidated by walking on floating docks, because they move with every wave and footstep. The drawback to a floating dock is its relative lack of stability. If your lake will freeze in winter, a floating dock is typically easy to remove and store, which avoids potential ice damage. It may be the most versatile type of dock, because it’s easy to buy, install and configure, and it will rise and fall with the lake level. The next thing you’ll want to consider is what type of dock is best for your situation:Ī floating dock is anchored to your shoreline and the lake bottom and supported by pontoons or flotation units. Talk to local dock builders as well, because they will be the most experienced at building docks that can be moved readily. Check out how their docks operate when the lake depth changes. If you don’t know what’s typical at your lake, talk to your cabin neighbors who have docks. In these cases, a floating dock may be your only option, or you may need a dock that you actually move in (up the shoreline) and out, according to the lake depth. If your lake varies dramatically in depth over time, your dock project may take on a whole new dimension you’ll need a dock that you can continually adjust for the varying depths. Keep in mind that many lakes are drawn down and refilled from time to time, depending on the season and local water needs. Measuring the correct depth with accuracy will be the toughest task. ![]() If the depth varies by only a couple of feet from the shoreline to where the end of the dock will be, that’s OK too – most kit docks will have enough built-in adjustability to accommodate this.īut if your lake bottom is rocky and varies more than a couple feet in depth from the shoreline out to where the end of the dock will be, you’ll likely need some expert help. The general rule for lake bottoms: If it’s sandy and flat, you’ll have little trouble. Typically, the configuration of the lake’s bottom combined with your shoreline layout will dictate whether you’ll need help with the design, layout and installation of your dock. ![]() You may have the background and fortitude to build your own dock, but other limitations might put the brakes on your homebuilt project. See also Choosing the Best Dock For the Cabin The up-front costs will be much higher than buying materials and building it yourself, but think of the benefits: Your dock will be built right and last for many years, and those weekends you’d have to spend measuring, hammering and drilling can be spent on other things. These do-it-yourself kits, which simply assemble at the shoreline and almost drop into place, are becoming more popular.īut if you can’t get up to camp for more than a day or two at a time, and/or you’re not one to tackle a major job, consider hiring a professional to design and build your dock. If you have Bob Vila-worthy skills, plenty of time, and an amenable shoreline and water depth, a “kit” dock is a great budget-friendly option. When you’re choosing what route to take in planning a new dock, it’s best to take stock of your situation and your skills. ![]() How you decide to upgrade depends on how handy you are, what type of shoreline and lake bottom you’re faced with, and your budget. Whether your dock is a total wreck or it’s just not your style, there are several resources to help you replace it, from parts, to complete building plans, to folks who will help you design and build your own and even construct it on-site.ĭocks range from very simple structures that may cost a couple thousand bucks to extremely complex systems that cost several thousand.
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